Reviewed · WALKING TOURS

Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues!

5.0 · 229 reviews 2 hours (approx.) Operated by Historic Edinburgh Tours · Bookable on Viator
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Edinburgh’s past gets especially dark around the old execution sites, the former Tolbooth Prison, and the narrow closes off the Royal Mile. This private two-hour walk connects those places with royal scandals, notorious criminals, Victorian poverty, and stories of Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, and Robert Burns.

I like the way the tour uses old photographs and archive images instead of asking you to picture the vanished city from bare stones alone. I also like the private format: Robert can adjust the pace, answer your questions, and shape the walk around your interests. The main drawback is that this is a walking tour over Old Town’s steep, uneven streets, and its dark subject matter will not suit everyone.

Key points to know

  • Greyfriars Kirkyard begins the story: Meet near Greyfriars Bobby’s graveyard and sort fact from legend around Edinburgh’s famous wee dog.
  • Three former execution sites appear along the route: The walk gives you a clear look at the city’s grim public justice system.
  • Robert brings local experience: He is a lifelong Edinburgh resident and teacher who uses humor, photos, props, and strong storytelling.
  • The Royal Mile is more than a main street: You visit royal locations, a courtyard, St Giles, Mercat Cross, an old close, and the site linked to Deacon Brodie.
  • Cowgate adds a less polished side of town: This short stop focuses on life among Edinburgh’s Victorian poor.
  • The price buys privacy: At $117.84 per group for up to one person, check the booking terms carefully if your party includes more than one participant.

Starting among the graves at Greyfriars Kirkyard

The tour begins just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, on Greyfriars Place. This is a fitting start. The cemetery sits in the middle of Edinburgh’s Old Town, yet its worn stones and enclosed paths quickly put you in a different mood from the shops and traffic nearby.

Your first story concerns Greyfriars Bobby, the little dog whose loyalty became part of Edinburgh folklore. You will hear that there are several versions of the tale, and the guide leaves room for you to decide what you believe. That small detail sets the tone well: this is not only a list of dates and names. It is a walk through stories, legends, disputed details, and the way Edinburgh remembers its past.

Allow about 15 minutes here. Admission to the stops is included at no extra charge, and the tour does not depend on entering a paid attraction. That keeps the focus on the streets, courtyards, graveyard, and historic sites themselves.

If Robert is leading your walk, expect an easy conversational start. He has been described as a lifelong Edinburgh citizen and a teacher, and his approach appears to combine explanation with humor. He may use images or props to show how places once looked, which helps when the modern city has covered or altered the older one.

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Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket’s public past

From Greyfriars, the route moves toward Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket. This section takes about 25 minutes and adds some of the best street-level context to the walk.

The Grassmarket is one of Edinburgh’s most recognizable spaces, but its past is much rougher than its present cafés and shops suggest. Here, the tour explores one of Scotland’s important weddings and follows the route of the pre-wedding party. The story gives you a more human way to understand how an event involving prominent people could affect the city.

This is also one of the places where the tour’s title, Royals and Rogues, makes sense. You are not simply looking at handsome buildings. You are tracing the movements of people before the ceremony and considering how personal events connected with Edinburgh’s public life.

The stop is free, but the ground can be uneven and the area may feel busy at times. Your guide can set a pace that suits your group, which matters on a route where you may stop often, turn into side streets, and pause to look at images or buildings.

The Royal Mile, from Mary Queen of Scots to Deacon Brodie

Private Old Edinburgh Tour - Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues! - The Royal Mile, from Mary Queen of Scots to Deacon Brodie

The Royal Mile receives the longest part of the tour, around 40 minutes. That is sensible. It is not one single attraction but a chain of streets and places layered with political, royal, religious, and criminal stories.

You will see where Mary, Queen of Scots spent part of her childhood, then visit a small courtyard with a royal connection. These stops help you look beyond the Royal Mile’s main flow. The most useful part of a guided walk here is often knowing where to turn. Without a guide, many of the courtyards and close entrances are easy to pass.

The route then takes up the strange story of Deacon William Brodie and his hanging. Brodie’s tale is especially suited to a walking tour because the setting matters. His story is tied to the city’s streets, its public punishments, and the difference between respectable appearances and private behavior.

You also get a brief history of St Giles Cathedral before reaching the old Mercat Cross. The cross played an important part in the story of Prince Charles Edward Stewart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. This gives the walk a political thread, linking one central location with the Jacobite cause and the conflicts that shaped Scotland.

The old close comes next. It is described as one of the more atmospheric parts of the route, with stories that are hard to forget. The guide’s use of archive images is valuable here. The present-day close may be narrow and quiet, but an old image can show how crowded, dark, or heavily built-up the area once was.

You should not expect an extended visit inside St Giles Cathedral or a formal castle tour. Edinburgh Castle is viewed from its hilltop perch, and the route concentrates on stories and places in the Old Town rather than paid interior admissions. That is an advantage if you already plan to visit the castle separately, but less useful if you want a full castle experience in these two hours.

Cowgate and the city below the main street

Private Old Edinburgh Tour - Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues! - Cowgate and the city below the main street

The Cowgate is often missed on standard Old Town walks, and this tour gives it about 10 minutes. It is a short stop, but it changes the focus from royal names and famous criminals to ordinary people living in difficult conditions.

Here, you learn about life among Edinburgh’s Victorian poor. That subject gives the tour needed balance. The Royal Mile can make the city seem like a stage for kings, princes, church leaders, and notorious figures. Cowgate reminds you that most city life was shaped by work, housing, poverty, and survival.

Do not expect a long social-history lecture at this point. Ten minutes is enough for an introduction and a few strong details, not a full study of Victorian Edinburgh. Still, this pause helps connect the grand stories above with the lives of people who lived in the city’s less celebrated quarters.

A few more Edinburgh half-days to weigh up

The University of Edinburgh and the Burke and Hare story

The final part of the walk takes place around two locations connected with the University of Edinburgh and lasts about 30 minutes. The first is linked with Burke and Hare, the Irish murderers whose crimes became one of the most notorious episodes in Edinburgh’s past.

You will learn how the pair operated, why they were able to murder so many people, and what eventually happened to them. The value here is not shock for its own sake. The story helps explain the conditions and demands that allowed their crimes to continue, giving you a clearer sense of how medicine, poverty, and criminal opportunity could intersect.

The guide may also draw attention to the traditional Highland outfit he is wearing. If Robert leads the tour, his kilt can become part of the conversation rather than a staged photo opportunity. That kind of informal detail can make the final section feel personal and relaxed.

The last stop is near Old College, or inside Old College if access is available. The building looks impressive today, but the story attached to it is even more dramatic, involving an explosive event in the literal sense. Since entry depends on whether the space is open to the tour, treat the interior visit as a possibility rather than a promise.

This stop also shows why a local guide can add value. A quick view of Old College tells you little beyond its architecture. A well-told account of what happened there gives the building a memorable connection to Edinburgh’s past.

What Robert’s guiding style adds

The strongest feature of this experience is the guide. Robert is repeatedly described as friendly, funny, adaptable, and able to explain complicated events in a clear way. He is also a teacher by trade, which may explain the balance between facts, questions, visual aids, and storytelling.

You can expect him to ask about your interests and adjust the route or emphasis where possible. If you want more royal history, more crime stories, more local life, or a slower pace for photographs, say so at the beginning. A private walk works best when you treat it as a conversation rather than a fixed speech.

His use of archive photographs is particularly useful. Edinburgh has changed in ways that are not always obvious from the street. Old images can show missing buildings, altered street layouts, and the crowded conditions of earlier centuries.

Props may also appear. One family described seeing photographs and fun props during the walk, while another praised the mix of humor and fact. You should expect these aids to support the stories, not a large theatrical production.

The tone is irreverent in places. That suits stories about criminals, public hangings, and questionable legends, but it may not be right for someone seeking a solemn academic lecture. The guide’s humor appears to be part of the appeal, especially for families and groups who like history presented in an informal way.

Pace, terrain, and practical comfort

The tour lasts about two hours and ends on South Bridge, roughly 10 minutes from the starting point at Greyfriars. That makes it easy to continue exploring the Old Town afterward, and the endpoint puts you close to further sights, cafés, and transport connections.

You should have a moderate level of physical fitness. The route includes Old Town streets, slopes, steps or uneven surfaces may be encountered, and frequent stops do not remove the need to walk between them. Wear shoes with a firm grip and keep your clothing suited to Edinburgh’s changeable weather.

The experience requires good weather. If poor conditions lead to cancellation, you are offered another date or a full refund. Since this is an outdoor walk with no guaranteed indoor substitute, check the forecast and avoid placing it too late in a tightly packed schedule.

The mobile ticket is practical, and confirmation is provided when you book. Service animals are allowed, and the meeting point is near public transportation. The activity is private, so only your own group participates.

Is $117.84 good value for a private walk?

The advertised price is $117.84 per group for up to one person. Because the wording says up to one participant, confirm the exact price and party-size terms before booking if you are traveling with a couple, family, or larger group.

For a solo visitor, the price can make sense if you want a personal introduction to Edinburgh rather than a large group tour. You are paying for a local guide’s time, a flexible pace, archive images, and access to stories that are easy to miss while walking alone.

For more than one person, the value depends on how the booking platform applies the group limit. A private tour often becomes better value when several people share the cost, but do not assume that applies here. Check the conditions first.

The walk does not include paid attraction admissions, and that keeps the cost clear. You will not receive a castle interior tour or a full cathedral visit as part of the route. Instead, the money goes toward a guided introduction to the streets and sites around the Old Town.

I would compare this with the cost of a standard group walk by asking what you need. If you want a broad overview, a group tour may be cheaper. If you want to ask questions, change the pace, and spend time on the subjects that interest you, the private format has a stronger case.

Who will enjoy this Old Town experience most?

I would recommend this walk to a first-time Edinburgh visitor who wants context before exploring the city alone. It gives you a useful map of central Old Town places and several stories to carry into the rest of your stay.

It is also a good fit for people who enjoy crime stories, royal disputes, old prisons, public punishment, and local legends. The route includes some grim material, so families should decide if their children are comfortable with those subjects.

History fans will appreciate the mix of famous figures and lesser-known corners. The tour covers Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Robert Burns, Deacon Brodie, Burke and Hare, Greyfriars Bobby, and the people who lived in Victorian Cowgate.

I would be less likely to choose it for someone who wants a quiet architecture walk, a formal museum tour, or a long visit inside major attractions. The focus is on outdoor storytelling, movement through the streets, and the human details behind the buildings.

Should you book the Private Old Edinburgh Tour?

Book it if you want Edinburgh explained through stories rather than a checklist of monuments. The route covers a lot in two hours, yet the private format gives you room to pause, ask questions, and request a pace that feels comfortable.

Robert is the key reason to choose it when he is available. His local background, teaching experience, humor, photos, and props create the sort of personal introduction that can turn a confusing Old Town into a readable one.

Before paying, confirm the participant limit and make sure you are comfortable with outdoor walking in changeable weather. If you are, this is a strong choice for a focused first look at Edinburgh’s royal, criminal, poor, and plainly strange past.

FAQ

Where does the tour begin?

It begins just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ.

Where does the tour end?

The usual endpoint is South Bridge, Edinburgh, about 10 minutes from Greyfriars Kirkyard.

How long does the tour last?

The tour lasts approximately two hours.

Is this a private tour?

Yes. Only your group participates in the activity.

What language is offered?

The tour is offered in English.

Are attraction admission tickets included?

The tour includes a local guide, and admission is listed as free at the scheduled stops. You view Edinburgh Castle from its hilltop position, while the final visit inside Old College depends on access being available.

What happens if the weather is poor?

The experience requires good weather. If it is canceled because of poor conditions, you can choose another date or receive a full refund. You can also cancel up to 24 hours before the start time for a full refund.

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